I write this post with lots of songs and images running through my mind.  I, like most other avid sewists with access to the BBC, am downing my sewing tools each Tuesday night to watch the four-part (why only four?!) BBC series, The Great British Sewing Bee.  It’s compelling television – 8 contestants (as of writing, already down to 6), two judges, and lots of timed sewing challenges.  It gets my sewing juices flowing even more than usual (which is saying a lot!) and hopefully it will inspire a whole new generation of sewists.

So, shall we talk about the dress?  It’s Simplicity 1800 from the Amazing Fit Collection with an open neckline, princess seams and a pleated skirt.  You have lots of choices to make before cutting the pattern – dress size, bust size and skirt size.  I made view B in a size 12, D cup with an average skirt.  I used a quilting-weight cotton by Alexander Henry Mecca for Moderns Mercer Park Grey from Pink Chalk Fabrics.

While making this dress I have had the Of Monsters and Men album, My Head is an Animal running through my head constantly.  I will never look at this dress without hearing those songs.  That’s what I love about sewing, or crafting in general; it can really tie you to a time, a place, a person, or, in this case, some music, in a way that buying something online or in a shop can’t do.  If you’ve not come across this band (they’re from Iceland – which will tie in nicely to our summer holiday plans!) then of course I recommend you check them out immediately!  My goal was to finish this dress to wear to their gig in Brussels – I achieved my goal but it seems that the band brought the Icelandic weather with them.

Ok, back to the dress…

Pros

Before starting this dress I wasn’t aware of how the Amazing Fit worked.  For this collection you cut out the pieces based on your pattern and bust size so there are different pattern pieces in each dress size for a B cup, C cup, D cup, etc.  This is actually quite clever because it means you’re more likely to get a good fit the first time and less likely to have to do scary things like small and full bust adjustments.

New dress in action – the kids can’t seem to understand why we’re taking pictures of me and not them!

I also like the overall look of the dress (pretty important if it’s something you plan on wearing!!) which was a happy surprise because this pattern was passed on from a friend so not something I necessarily I would have chosen off the shelf.  When looking at the photo I was most concerned about not liking the open neckline but that turned out to be one of the nicest features!  It’s nice to sew something out of your usual style once in awhile!

The only design change I made was to add piping to the edges of the pockets and along the seam up to where the skirt is sewn to the bodice.

Cons

Although each step of the instructions is clear and easy to follow, the way they have you do the construction is not.  I did do a muslin (which I would highly recommend if you’re going to follow the instructions the way they are stated). Basically you attach the bodice to the skirt inside out (you sew the pieces wrong sides together) to do the fitting. This is fine but then when you sew the real thing you have to jump back and forth in the instructions because the original instructions don’t include attaching the lining.  I had to make little notes to myself in the margins because with all that jumping around it was very easy to leave out steps.  As it turned out I didn’t need to adjust anything from the muslin so in hindsight I wish I’d just gone for it!

Conclusion

I’m quite pleased with the final look of this dress. It was rather time-consuming to make, with the muslin sewing/fitting issues, but I’m pretty sure I’ll wear it often once it finally warms up a bit!  Now that I know how the Amazing Fit system works I’d be interested to try another pattern in the collection and be confident to just sew it without going through all the fitting steps.

Good music, inspiring sewing and even a new dress.  It’s a pretty good day.  Even Manu agrees…

So, what about you guys?  What music is driving your sewing machine these days?  Have you made anything from the Amazing Fit collection?  What do you think of it?  What will you be making for Spring and Summer?

Thanks for reading,

Laura x

Filed under: grown-up clothing Tagged: pink chalk fabrics, piping, quilting cotton, simplicity, Whil

I wouldn’t say that I’ve totally given up on mastering the Banksia Top in double gauze and gold piping – but it has indeed been put on hold.

I wanted to knock up another Spring Sewalong top for and, to be honest, my patience was wearing thin.  This is now the third piece of clothing in a row (!) that I’ve made for myself which is extremely rare, if not entirely unheard of.  (I’ll make up for it during Kid’s Clothes Week though).  Because I was feeling impatient and restless I needed something that was relatively quick to sew, easy to fit and didn’t require me buying anything.

I turned to Liesl Gibson, the designer behind Oliver + S and Lisette patterns, knowing I was in safe hands.  Also, I’d already made this pattern in a dress version so I was pretty sure I could do it and that it would fit.

It’s the Lisette Portfolio (2245) view C.  I made a size 14 with no additional alterations.  Because of the gathers in the centre of the top there are no darts to contend with which makes the fitting much easier/forgiving.

The Process

There’s not a great deal to say about the construction process itself.  Every step is clear and, the more I think about it, this would be a great beginner’s project.  There are no closures (just buttons but you don’t even need to do buttonholes), no darts and no sleeves to set.  You need to take your time with the curved seam of the collar but that’s probably the trickiest part.

I added starry buttons for extra twinkle!

Cons

Let’s start with the downside this time.  My biggest complaint about this top is that it’s too short!!  Grrr!!  The picture on the sleeve did indeed look too short so why I didn’t just extend the hemline when cutting I don’t know!  I considered adding a facing to the bottom instead of hemming it but I still don’t think that would have helped enough.  Does anyone have any tips for resolving this issue?!

Overall, I’m not sure the structure of the top was exactly what I was aiming for.  It’s a bit angular and boxy whereas in my mind’s eye I was sewing a floaty, feminine number….think that’s more an issue with my mind’s eye than anything else because of course I knew full-well what I was sewing!

Pros

No surprises here but the first plus point of this pattern is the clear instructions which are a joy to follow.  Also, the top is so well-constructed that everything (or almost everything, in my case) is as tidy on the inside as it is on the out.

By far and away, the thing I love most about this top is every aspect of the fabric (and the way it works with the piping).  This post wouldn’t be complete without some gushing over this fabric.  The husband of my dear friend in San Francisco works for Levi’s and this shirting cotton was a gift.  Even the textile junkies at Levi’s drool over it (so I’m told ).  It’s somehow crisp and soft at the same time.  Honestly, you just want it next to your skin (I’ve also been making circle scarves out of it – more about that in another post).  It does crease quite easily but, for me, that’s part of its appeal.  It feels loved and lived-in even from the first wear.  And I love the way this fabric contrasts the light, almost muted, gold piping.  It adds a soft touch of bling to an altogether sumptuous fabric.

So, even though I have slight issues with the style of this top, I know I’m going to be pulling it out of the wardrobe time and time again this summer.  I didn’t get my double gauze, but I did get my gold piping – and in a fabric that I love just as much.

P.S. – And a quick thank you to my resident photographer (taken by his – even more junior – assistant! ).

Thanks for reading,

Laura x

Kid’s Clothes Week is now a distant memory, the sun is shining (some days), and I feel it’s finally time to start thinking about summer clothes for me!!  After making this Banksia top and this Lisette Portfolio top for Rae’s Spring Top Sewalong, I realised a couple of things.  First, although much more time-consuming (and potentially disastrous), sewing for me offers its own set of fun challenges.  And, second, I’ve found that I wear these two tops all. the. time!  It’s so nice having something that’s not a t-shirt but just as easy to throw on while trying to wrestle three kids into school clothes and get them out the door.

With this is mind, I’m determined to make time to sew some more tops for myself.  Here is my top 10.  Realistically, I’ll be happy if I manage to sew two or three of these but I love them all in their own way.

10.  Renfrew Top (Sewaholic)

I have yet to sew from a Sewaholic pattern but I’ve been reading rave reviews in the blogosphere for years.  Not being a huge fan of sewing with knits (every time feels like the first time and I’m pretty darn sick of that beginner feeling by now), I was a bit hesitant to add this to the list.  However, when I read Ginger’s full-on gushing about this pattern on True Bias’s Tried and True Series I was convinced I should give it a go.

Image from gingermakes.wordpress.com via truebias.com

9.  Scout Woven tee (Grainline Studio)

A woven (as opposed to knit) tee – that’s more my style!  This t-shirt just seems like a dream come true.  What a quick and easy way to show off some great fabric!  I was a bit concerned about it being a bit shapeless (there aren’t even any darts) but, yet again, some other talented, snazzy bloggers have put my mind to rest.  This definitely makes the top 10.

I love the sweet polka dots on this light-weight cotton version by Adrienne.

image from http://stitchingontheedge.blogspot.be/2013/01/polka-dot-scout-tee_15.html

And how cute is the teeny, tiny pocket on this one that Dixie made!?

image from Dixie DIY

8.  Airelle Top (Deer and Doe)

I’ve been drooling over this pattern for a while now in my local sewing shop (yes, my local – as in a 2 minute walk – shop sells this!  How cool is that!?).

image from http://boutique.deer-and-doe.fr/1-sewing-pattern-airelle-blouse.html

Vero made this great top and also gives a wonderfully detailed description of the process on her blog.

image from http://www.couturestuff.com/airelle-dragibus-blouse-deerdoe/

And I just love this version from the Deer and Doe website.

image from http://boutique.deer-and-doe.fr/1-sewing-pattern-airelle-blouse.html

I particularly love the back yoke with piping.

image from http://boutique.deer-and-doe.fr/1-sewing-pattern-airelle-blouse.html

PS.  If it weren’t for my aversion to wearing sleeveless tops, I would have also included this Datura blouse, also from Deer and Doe.  This cut-out neckline is fanstastic!

image from http://www.flickr.com/photos/alldaylongidreamofsewing/8652043794/in/pool-springtops2013/

7.  Mathilde Top (Tilly and the Buttons)

I find Tilly so charming and likeable (not that I know her – but if I met her I’m sure we’d be BFFs!!).  As a contestant on The Great British Sewing Bee she shined as an innovator in home sewing.  This is one (if not the) first pattern she drafted for sale.  There are lots of possibilities for personalisation with this top and, much to my liking, lots of opportunities for piping.

image from http://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/p/how-to-make-mathilde-blouse.html

image from http://didyoumakethat.wordpress.com/2013/02/16/the-mathilde-blouse-perfection/

image from http://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/p/maker-gallery.html

6.  Burda blouse 3/2012

I pinned this top a while ago on Pinterest.

image from http://sabali-couture.fr/chemisier-a-pois-au-bronze-et-au-marteau/

After doing some research I found the original – which I hardly recognised as the same top!

I love the collar, the gathered neckline, the addition of piping, the navy fabric, the stud closures – I love it all!

image from http://sabali-couture.fr/chemisier-a-pois-au-bronze-et-au-marteau/

5.  Laurel top, tunic or dress (Colette)

The Laurel pattern has been everywhere in recent months.  At first I wasn’t so sure it was for me – would it be boxy and/or unflattering? – but so many talented sewing bloggers can’t be wrong!  It seems like it’s a winner!!

I love Anna’s white, wintery version.

image from http://www.noodle-head.com/2013/03/laurel-dress.html

And this one just made me laugh…oh, it’s getting late, I’m getting giddy, let’s move on.

image from http://gingermakes.wordpress.com/2013/04/30/colette-laurel-or-the-jurassic-park-twinsies-geeky-awesomeness-dress/

PS – When you buy the pattern you also get a free downloadable ebooklet on 9 different variations you can make to personalise your top even further.

image from http://backstitchblog.blogspot.be/2013/03/its-new-colette-laurel.html

4.  High Low Top (Melly Sews)

I’ve only recently discovered Melly Sews (through a very helpful suggestion by one of you readers ).  It’s a great place to go for instruction, inspiration and a ton of free patterns and tutorials.  There are many that I’ll be trying out.  This High and Low Top immediately caught my eye.  And, did I mention it’s a free, downloadable pattern with full instructions?!

image from http://mellysews.com/2013/02/high-low-shirt-tutorial-pattern.html

3.  Simplicity 1779

Number three is, admittidly, a strange choice.  There is something about this top that’s a little like the Airelle blouse and I think it has the potential to be light and fun.  I can’t find much out there from others that have sewn it so I’ll just have to leave you with this coolio Simplicity pic!

2.  Laelia blouse (Blousette Rose)

I love this blouse.  I even have the pattern in a child version for my daughter (although haven’t sewn either version yet).  Cute collar?  Check.  Piping?  Check.  Slightly puffed sleeves?  Check?

image from http://www.blousetterose.com/fr/les-patrons/24-laelia

And look how this blouse opens on the side…I love that detail.

image from http://www.blousetterose.com/fr/les-patrons/24-laelia

If you don’t know Blousette Rose then check them out.  They have beautiful patterns for women and girls.

Here’s a lovely checked version Anna made – you can read about it on her blog.

image from http://paunnet.blogspot.it/2013/03/plaid-laelia-blouse.html

1.  Negroni man’s shirt (Colette)

And finally, let’s not forget the men in our lives (Father’s Day is just around the corner).  I’m still not quite sure I have the confidence to take on this challenge but I’m getting dangerously close (watch out, Stephen!).

image from http://www.colettepatterns.com/shop/negroni

image from http://www.colettepatterns.com/shop/negroni

Florence from Flossie Teacakes made this stunning Liberty print version.

image from http://flossieteacakes.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/negroni-best-not-frozen.html

Finally, before I fall asleep as I type, I just wanted to say a quick word to all you lovely readers.  I absolutely LOVE all the comments you guys leave here!  I can’t believe I’ve made so many connections with so many of you so quickly (this blog went ‘live’ on 26 February this year).  The whole process of planning something, sewing, photographing and blogging is utterly addictive.  Thanks to you all for coming along for the ride!

So, tell me!  What have you sewn from this list?  Which ones would you recommend?   I’m thinking that the Laelia blouse or the Airelle top will be my first sew.  I’d love to hear your experiences.

Thanks for reading,

Laura x

Vintage sewing machine image courtesy of Elisandra Illustrations (http://elisandra.com/)

I love writing these lists because it forces me to deviate from my well-trodden internet browsing paths and to seek out something new.  By the time my list is compiled, I always end up with a few more inspiring blogs in my Bloglovin’ feed and often chat with some of the creators.  This makes the whole process very fulfilling.  Now for the really fun part – sharing it all with you.

With Selfish Sewing Week nearly upon us, I thought now would be a good time to share some of my favourite seasonal sewing ideas.  I won’t possibly be able to sew them all myself (oh, if only I had the time!!) but I find them all drool-worthy and would love to see what variations you all come up with.  And, as always, let me know if I’m missing something fabulous.

10. Simplicity 1882

I was originally drawn to this pattern when Karen from Did you make that? was giving a copy away on her blog.  Sadly I didn’t win the pattern but I couldn’t get it out of my head so picked one up from Jo-Ann’s in the States.

I think you’ll agree that Karen’s version is fantastic (especially with those shoes!!).  The thing I love most about hers is the simplicity of the design.  I am usually a sucker for piping and contrast but I actually prefer this dress with just one well-chosen fabric (and boy are those tulips well-chosen!).

9. Roxanne Top (Victory Patterns)

I’ve been reading lots about Victory patterns at the moment and they all look pretty enticing.  I think this one is my favourite though.  I’m aiming to make the long sleeve version with the AMAZING collar.  Anna’s version is pretty much perfection for me.

It’s so lovely I had to share two photos – I just want you to appreciate that collar.

8. Vogue 8805

Now that I’m conquering my fear of knits, I’m starting to think of knit dresses for myself.  I’ve had my eye on this lovely, simple Breton knit dress from Toast and I think that this pattern could be adapted to make something similar.

In fact, I think this pattern has a lot of potential for customisation plus the construction is quite simple – win, win.

7. Leggings – self-drafting tutorial

With all these tops, tunics and dresses we all need a good, well-fitted pair of leggings, right?  I recently discovered how easy and satisfying it is to make children’s leggings (if you’re interested, check out the Go To Leggings pattern).  That got me thinking that it couldn’t be tooooo hard to do the same for adults…but then I thought, no way!, as simple as they are to sew I had visions of saggy knees, pulling in the wrong places, etc.

Well, fear not!  Etsy has come to the rescue.  This Etsy tutorial walks you through all the measurements you need to take to get the perfect fit (and there are LOTS of measurements needed…more than you would think…but that reassures me and makes me think they’ll fit well).  It’s possible that this could be the most useful pattern of the season (and I love getting out the ruler and doing some technical drawings!).

6. Butterick 5639

“Why is she including a summer dress pattern?”, I hear you ask.  Yes, indeed this is intended as a summer frock but then I came across this version.

It’s made from linen but you could get the same look with a light-weight wool.  With a long-sleeved shirt underneath, a cardigan, some tights and boots and you’ll be kicking up fallen leaves and warming your hands by a fire before you know it!

5. Wong-Singh-Jones Mandalay Jacket (Hot Patterns 1131)

Hot Patterns are new to me….which is surprising because they have an awful lot of styles out there.  Have any of you sewed from them?  I like the shape and placement of the pockets on this jacket.  I’m envisioning a tweed version and I may even go as far as adding leather or suede patches on the elbows…oh, and with a funky, bright lining.  I’m loving the idea of this more and more as I type.  This is a good starting point for overall style.

4. Elisalex Dress (By Hand London)

A beautiful dress for a special Autumn outing.  I adore those pleats in the skirt and, when made with the right fabric, it hangs so beautifully.

To read a full review, and to see some more Elisalex eye candy, check out the review by the fabulous oonaballoona.

Oh, and the patterns come is such loverly packaging…

3. Archer Shirt (Grainline Studio)

Now, here’s a solid wardrobe basic for you.  With two versions possible, you can make it a quite conservative button-up shirt or go for the gathered lower back detail.

There’s also been an Archer Sewalong which is a great resource in case you get stuck on anything.

There are oodles of wonderful versions of this shirt around (do a search – you’ll see what I mean).  My current favourite is Emily’s version - I’m in love with the fabric and expert finishes.

2. A+ Skirt (Make it Perfect)

Maybe all of you out there already have a go-to a-line skirt pattern (if you do, please tell!), but I always struggle to find a good, basic skirt pattern.  This one looks like a winner – instant download (I know, I know, printing, taping and cutting – but there can’t be too many pieces…), lots of variations, clear instructions.  I also like that it’s quite narrow through the hip.

1. Sol Hoodie (Jamie Christina Patterns)

I fell in love with this pattern instantly.  Just recently I came across Heidi and Finn’s Slouchy Cardigan sewing pattern (for children) and a lightbulb went off in my head – I can make knitwear without actually knitting anything!  I can sew it!  Genius!

Now that this proverbial pin has dropped, I envision many more ‘knitted’ garments on my sewing table.

Bonus!! Blair Batwing Shirt (Named)

I just couldn’t leave this one out!  Named is a new independent pattern company by Finnish sisters Saara and Laura Huhta.  It’s sleek and modern…in fact, so sleek and modern that I’m not sure how (if at all!) it fits into my lifestyle.  That’s not to say, however, that I don’t appreciate the beautiful silhouettes and the obvious dedication it’s taken to create this collection.

The Blair Batwing Shirt jumped out at me as something I would love to wear.

And here’s a peak at the whole collection – for those of you who live sleeker, more modern lives than myself!

And, if you like what you see here you can read an interview with the designer sisters Saara and Laura Huhta at House of Pinheiro.

Another bonus!! Thread Theory

Thread Theory

Yup, another bonus…consider yourselves spoiled…although this time it’s not selfish.  If you feel ambitious enough to sew something for the man (men!?) in your life, why not have a look at Thread Theory with their choice of fine men’s sewing patterns.  Choose from Newcastle cardigan,  Strathcona Henley and T-Shirt, or Jedediah Pants and Shorts.  If you choose the Jedediah pants or shorts then check out the sewalong for help along the way.

So what are you waiting for?!  Go on – get excited and make things…

Image courtesy of Elisandra Illustrations

…and then tell me all about it.

So the Top 10 is a Top 12 today.  What takes your fancy?  Have you already made some of these?  What am I missing?  Come on – join in the conversation.

Thanks for reading,

Laura x

It feels like it’s been aaaaages!  Are you guys still out there??  Less blogging, however, does NOT mean less sewing!  I’ve been busy on various projects and soon I can actually share them with you.  For now I just wanted to give you a peek into some works in progress.

First quilt completed

I did it!  I made a quilt!!  I am in love with it – puckers, wonky binding and all!  It’s technically a crib size quilt (approx. 60 in x 46 in) which I still think will be fine for a casual, cuddly blanket on the sofa.  The top is a collection of scraps from previous projects and the back is black double gauze which I got from the lovely Rachael of Imagine Gnats.  Seriously soft and snuggly!

The work does not end here however.  With three kids and only one quilt made…I think you can see where this is going.  There is no option of not completing the other two now!  I’ve got all the pieces cut for the tops of the other two (they will be the same pattern, just different fabrics) so now need to get stitching.

Lisette Attaché Dress – Simplicity 1666

My next project for the Minerva Craft Blogger Network is Liesl Gibson’s Lisette attaché Dress (Simplicity 1666).  After the challenge of sewing a coat, this month I’m contradicting all I’ve said about pushing sewing barriers and taking things a bit easy.  All of Liesl’s patterns are a dream to follow and this one is no exception.

The fabric is an aubergine (eggplant for you Americans ) heavy crepe with a beautiful drape from Minerva Crafts.

The dress is not finished but I’ve sewn enough to know that it fits (big sigh of relief as I didn’t make a muslin).  It’s a style that I wouldn’t normally choose so I’m interested to see how (if) I can make it work…

The 12 Days of Christmas

A couple of posts ago I wrote about The 12 Days Christmas series hosted by Suz (Sewpony) and Laura (Craftstorming).  Basically, it’s a bunch of awesome bloggers making stunning Christmas gear for their kids.  It’s now underway and things are looking great!  All posts are published on Sewpony and Craftstorming so go check out day 1 and 2 if you haven’t already.

I’m not up until the 10th but the sewing is in full swing.  I can’t reveal too much but here are a couple of peeks of what I’ve been working on.

As you can probably tell, it’s all about comfort in my little Christmas world!

So, that’s it for now!  I’m sorry to say that I’m also woefully behind on reading all my beloved blogs…I’m looking forward to a good catch up of everything over the holidays!

Thanks for reading and hope all your holiday sewing is going well.

Laura x

OK, so here’s what you fabulous sewists should do – stop all that holiday sewing and make a dress for yourself!

I know, it’s a bit indulgent at this time of year and, to be honest, I know for a fact I wouldn’t have taken on this project right now had I not already committed myself to the Minerva Craft Blogger Network.

But here we are, two weeks before Christmas, the dress is done, and I love that I have something new, special and versatile to wear to all the holiday outings.

The Dress

For my second month as part of the Minerva Craft Blogger Network I’m sharing with you the Lisette Attache Dress (Simplicity 1666).  I made the dress (view A) but the pattern also includes a peplum top, a straight skirt and a bag.  After all my blathering on last month about pushing ourselves with our sewing projects, this month I took it a bit easy (I was accurately predicting my mild panic about getting all the Christmas sewing done).  You can’t go wrong with Lisel Gibson’s Lisette patterns (or her Oliver+s patterns for that matter).  I knew I was in safe hands as far as the construction goes.

The challenging part of this project came in the style.  The shape of this dress is not something that I would usually go for – my default dress is boxy and rather shapeless.  The Lisette Portfolio Dress (Simplicity 2245) that I’m wearing in that little image up there on the right is pretty much my perfect dress.  I also recently purchased The Camber Dress pattern by Merchant and Mills which I can’t wait to try out.

This Lisette dress is more hourglass shaped and I even wore a belt!  I never wear dresses with belts.  I mean never!  I bought this belt about five years ago and this is the second time I’ve worn it.

The Fabric

The fabric for this dress is an aubergine crepe (but comes in ten different colours).  It was a bit of a challenge simply because it was new to me.  As it turns out, it was easy to sew and quite forgiving (although does fray quite a bit – make sure to overlock or zig zag your raw edges).  It drapes really well and has a lovely weight to it (I didn’t find it necessary to line the dress).

Construction

Do you like it better with or without the belt??

I was feeling a bit reckless when I started this dress and took two shortcuts that I normally wouldn’t do (but thankfully turned out ok).

• First, I didn’t make a muslin.  I just couldn’t face making the dress twice and I’d made other Lisette patterns in size 14 so felt fairly confident it would fit.
• Second, instead of tracing my size onto pattern paper and then cutting out, I just cut my size straight from the printed pattern.  Maybe you all do that anyway??

To make the dress I followed the instructions pretty closely – it is Liesl after all.  It consists of six panels which give the dress a lovely shape – it skims the body without being overtly fitted.  Also, with these panels it’s quite easy to make adjustments to the size in just the right place.

The only two alterations I made (and these are tiny!):

• I used an invisible zip instead of a normal zip and installed it using this tutorial from The Coletterie (by far the best tutorial I’ve come across).
• I planned on hand stitching the hem on the sleeves and at the bottom but, after doing one sleeve, the fabric looked puckered and bumpy so I opted for machine stitching instead.  If you sew with this fabric be careful as it doesn’t crease when ironed so you have to persuade it to behave.

Sizing and Fit

My measurements fell in between size 12 and 14 and went for the 14 (always better too big than too small, right?).  I basted the side seams to start with and was so relieved that it fit on the first try.  After taking these pictures and wearing the dress all day I realise that the fit isn’t actually perfect – there is a bit of gaping between the top of my bust and shoulders.  Even though overall I’m happy, I’m curious to know what a size 12 would look like.  There is a bit of stretch in the fabric so perhaps I could have got away with a size smaller.  What do you guys think?  Does it look too big?

Final thoughts

I am happy with this dress.  I’m still not completely comfortable with the whole belt thing but, I must say, it does feel decidedly grown up!  I was sort of swishing my way through the day with purpose and determination!!  It’s a dress that gives you confidence!  If you like what you see here you can buy the full kit – fabric, thread, zip, and pattern – over at Minerva Crafts.  Made in black, this dress would be endlessly versatile and even kind of sexy.  Go on, give it a go!

Thanks for reading and here’s hoping you find the time to sew yourself something fabulous for the holidays.

Laura x

What better way to start the week than with a giveaway winner?!

Congratulations to Crazy Estonian – you are the winner of your choice of sewing pattern from Figgy’s Heavenly Collection.  You should have an email from me with all the details.

Thanks to you all for entering and for leaving such lovely comments!

Hope you’re all working on something fabulous this week.  I’ve been inspired by the always-amazing Trine of Groovybaby…and mama and I’m working on Simplicity 1652.

Who knew that a pattern envelope like this:

could turn into this?!

More on that later….

Laura x

The most common ‘general enquiry’ email I get through my blog is asking about the pattern I used to make the dress I’m wearing in my profile picture.  It’s Lisette’s Portfolio Dress (Simplicity 2245) and is now *sadly* out of print (or is it?!?!, keep reading!).

But fear not!  Wipe your tears away and check out these other sewing patterns that I’ve compiled that might also take your fancy.

10.  New Look 6145

On close inspection, this is a cute little dress!  It’s got lots of interesting options – I particularly like the pleated (?) sleeves in view A and the wide collar on views C, D, and E.

Here’s a great real life version by Kathryn of Elevenses with Mrs L.

9.  Schoolhouse Tunic – Sew Liberated

I’ve had this pattern on my to-sew list for longer than I care to admit.

There are lots of cute versions out there.  I like this yellow one for Spring by Shannon of 2nd Story Sewing.

8.  Tessuti Gabby Dress

There seems to be a lot of chatter out there right now about Tessuti.  If I’m honest, they haven’t been on my radar until now but so far I really like what I see.  This dress looks like the perfect beginner project – easy enough to complete without tears or swearing yet challenging enough to really feel like you’ve accomplished something.

I adore this fabric choice by Sewn by Elizabeth.

And here’s a fabulous, self-proclaimed kooky version by Smunch.

7.  Relaxed Fit Shift Dress – Pattern Runway

A pattern by Australian-based independent design company Pattern Runway.

6. The Laurel Dress – Colette Patterns

A simple and beautifully designed dress with loads of room for personalisation.

How can you not fall in love with this version by Sew Convert?!

And Sew Charleston shows us how it can work with a belt.

5.  Front Pleat Dress BurdaStyle 07/2012 #104

I do like this dress but wonder if it would just be totally shapeless with the extra fabric due to the pleat.  Here’s how it looks on the pattern.  Thoughts?

Here’s a top version of the same pattern again, by Lauren of Smunch (can you see I have a new blogger’s crush?!).

4.  Linen Shift Dress – a free tutorial

I love linen – it makes everything look casually chic.  This is quite a nifty little tutorial for making up a dress in a couple of hours.  I’ve got some lovely, soft navy linen in my stash…

3.  Simplicity 2147

As with so many pattern envelopes, this one does not inspire…

…but these two versions surely do!  I would happily wear either of these every day of the week!  The colouring and styling by Simple Beans is right up my alley.

And I love the gingham cut on the bias here by Barefoot in the Kitchen.

2.  Built by Wendy – Simplicity 3835

One of the key features of the Portfolio Dress is the integrated pockets.  It’s hard to find other patterns that have this construction but this dress has lots of scope for adding your own.

Sanae’s version applies welt pockets which get really close to the overall look of the Portfolio.

This version by The Fabled Needle applies vintage utility-looking pockets to great effect.

1.  The Factory Dress – Merchant and Mills

No surprise that I’d have a Merchant and Mills dress at the top of the list!  In fact, I have this pattern and fabric which I purchased on a recent visit to the Merchant and Mills shop in Rye, UK.  Watch this space for my own version!

I love all of Harmony & Rosie’s makes – this dress is no exception.

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If you want to see all the possibilities for inclusion in this post then check out my pinterest board all about shift dresses.

So, what do you think?  Do any of these patterns make you *less* sad that the Portfolio is out of print??  NO???  Well then, how about this:

THE PORTFOLIO DRESS IS BEING RE-RELEASED!!

Yup, that’s right!  I got in touch with Liesl before writing this post and she informed me that they’re just putting the finishing touches on the newly updated pattern (it will be released under Liesl&Co as opposed to Simplicity).  She tells that this version is going to be *even better* than the original!  Great news, right?  And, it gets better.  Liesl has very generously agreed to offer a copy of the new pattern to one of you lovely readers!  Once the pattern is released I’ll be hosting a giveaway so keep your eyes open.

Until that release date, which of these 10 has you rushing to your sewing area to get started!?

Thanks for reading,

Laura x

The more garments I sew for the Minerva Craft Blogger Network the more I enjoy it.  Choosing from their extensive range of patterns and fabrics started out being totally overwhelming but I’m now slowly starting to know the patterns/designs that suit me and which fabrics would work well for them.  This month’s choice was heavily inspired by Trine’s awesome version.

Last month was all about kid’s pjs so this month I made sure to get in a little selfish sewing…and boy am I glad I did!  This dress is definitely in my top five favourite things I’ve sewn for myself!

Dress: Simplicity 1652.  Size 12, Cup C, Front – View A, Back – View B.  Fabric: Black/white pinstripe cotton-linen blend.  Buttons: self-covered with Liberty scraps.  Tights: hand-dyed ombre tights ‘sunset’ from BZRShop.  Boots: Camper Annie Ankle Boots.

The Dress

Simplicity 1652 is part of Simplicity’s Amazing Fit collection.  What this means is that you have multiple choices for not just the size of the dress but also the bust size (and in some cases, the fullness of the skirt).  This allows you to mix and match thereby giving you an amazing fit.  Well, that’s the idea anyway.

The dress has three sleeve options and two back options.  I went for View A in the front (short sleeves and button tabs – just say NO! to chunky chains sewn onto clothing!) and View B in the back (cut-out triangle).

This dress also has really great pockets that are sewn into the front section seams – easy to do and makes it a bit more interesting than pockets along the side seams.

The Fabric

For this dress I chose a versatile black/white pinstripe which is a cotton-linen blend (click on photo to learn more about it).  I love this fabric!  It’s easy to work with (yes, it frays so make sure to finish your raw edges) but it’s a great weight and is suitable for cooler weather (tights and cardi!) or just as is with sandals in summer.

Also, with this fabric there were lots of options in terms of how to lay out the fabric (ie, which direction you want the stripes to go in for each pattern piece).  I had fun sketching out all the different possibilities and finally decided on doing vertical stripes for the main bodice, skirt and sleeves, horizontal stripes for the button tabs, and bias cut stripes for the side bodice and back.

Construction

I’ve made a Simplicity Amazing Fit dress before (Simplicity 1800 – you can see it here) so I should have been fine with the method of construction.  But, alas, much time had passed and I’d forgotten just how mad this method it!  I don’t think you’ll find any sewing blogger writing about the Amazing Fit collection without referencing the odd construction process.

In short, you sew the bodice pieces together and then you sew the skirt pieces together – this part is pretty straightforward – but then you sew the bodice to the skirt inside out (so, you sew with the wrong sides of the fabric facing each other) with a large seam allowance in order to tweak the fit.  Then you have to take it apart, make your adjustments and then put it back together the right way around.

Some other notes on construction:

• The front bodice is unlined.  I didn’t really like this and next time would try to draft a lining.
• I added a lining to the skirt.  The fabric is rather sheer so opted for a lining here.  I drafted the lining based on the assembled skirt pieces and then attached it along the skirt/bodice seam line.

• The sleeves were trickier to set than I expected.  You are instructed to set the sleeves after the side seams are sewn and lately I’ve been setting sleeves into an open side seam and then closing the side seam and sleeve seam with one line of sewing.  Next time I’ll do it this way.
• For the buttons on the tabs I made my own covered buttons with scraps of Liberty print fabric.

Sizing and Fit

The last time I made an Amazing Fit dress I made size 12 with a D cup.  After sewing it I thought it fit well but now that I’ve worn it for a while I realise that it’s actually too big in the bust (but I’ll still wear it!).

This time I made size 12 with a C cup and this worked *much* better.  I’ve actually worn this dress a few times already so I feel confident in saying that I’m happy with the fit.

The only issue I have is that there is a bit of gaping in the back along the top of the zip.  I’m a bit stumped about how to remedy this – if I were to take it in anymore then I’m afraid I wouldn’t be able to move my arms!

Final thoughts

So, I guess the final question is – Is it really an amazing fit?  The short answer is yes!  I didn’t really make any adjustments from the size 12, cup c pattern so, for something so closely fitted around the bust, is pretty amazing!  Now that I’m happy with the fit I want to rush out and make more from this collection (before I forget all the details of construction).  I already have Simplicity 1882 in my stash so I really should get sewing!

And here’s me taking a pic of my photographer for the day…

…and my photographer… (follow me on Instagram if you’re interested in seeing more behind the hedgerow scenes shots!).

Start ‘em young!

If you’re inspired to give this pattern and fabric a go then you can buy the full kit here.  It includes the pattern, fabric, interfacing, zip, lining and thread.  It also includes yellow buttons for the tabs.  If you want to do covered buttons (which are surprisingly easy to make and very effective) then you can find everything you need for that here.

Thanks for reading

Laura x

Sometimes I wonder exactly who you are.  Yes, you!  Perhaps you’re all seasoned sewists who check in on me now and again in an “awww, isn’t she cute trying to sew” kind of way; or maybe you’re absolute beginners looking for a little guidance from a fellow sewing enthusiast (and I sincerely hope there’s a lovely mix of both types out there).

Whatever your level or background, we all love a simple skirt, right?!  Well, that is exactly what I have to share with you this month for the Minerva Craft Blogger Network.

The Pattern

The pattern is Simplicity 1616.  Yes, it’s as basic as they come but it’s also an incredibly useful staple.  It has versions for both knit and woven fabric and, especially if you’re new to sewing, it walks you through the (very few) steps to create the skirt – sew side seams, sew on waistband, hem, DONE!  It really is that easy!  I made this skirt in way under an hour and still had time and fabric left to make a matching one for Margot.

The waistband is a fold-over yoga-style which means you can throw this baby on in a seconds flat…and it’s ridiculously comfortable!

The Fabric

If you’re going to make something as simple as this then it’s important to consider the fabric carefully.  A basic solid colour skirt would be acceptable but this techno-bright digital floral graphic is waaaay more fun, I think you’ll agree!

This is a heavy(ish) weight polyester/spandex jersey fabric.  The print is fun and vivid, the feel is slippery yet weighty and it’s listed on the Minerva Craft site as Scuba bodycon – which I found somewhat scary and slightly intimidating.  I had to double-check with Minerva to make sure it would be suitable for a simple skirt.

It turns out it’s perfect for this skirt.  I made view A but shortened it by 15 inches.  For Margot’s skirt I used the skirt part of the pattern from Kitschy Coo’s Skater Dress and drafted a waistband based on her measurements.  Again, easy as pie – and one happy girl!

One word to the wise, especially if using this fabric for children’s clothes, it will pick quite easily so, if such things bother you, take care.

I’ve crossed a line

This innocuous little project has also seen me cross a sewing line that I thought would never happen – matching mother/daughter clothes!  I cringe even when I type out the words!  What have I done!?

Well, if I’m totally honest I can’t say I’m that surprised.  Ever since I’ve seen Trine (Groovybaby…and Mama) sew up some fabulous ensembles for her and her daughter I knew that matching clothes could now officially be classed as cool and acceptable (at least in my world of what’s ‘official’ and what’s ‘cool’).  What about you?!  Are you rushing out to buy bolts of fabric destined for matching outfits or are you currently un-subscribing to this blog with the mere suggestion of such a fashion faux-pas?

Sum up

These things are true:

• Summer is around the corner (at least for us Northern Hemispherers)
• Time is always the most valuable commodity
• Swishy skirts add fun and frivolity to life
• If you have a daughter, you can now be twins!

Do you need any more persuading!  It’ll be the best 45 minutes you’ve ever spent sewing something so simple!

Thanks for reading,

Laura x

PS – Have you noticed some changes around the blog?!  I have now moved from wordpress.com to wordpress.org!  Way-hey!  There will be more changes in the coming days and I’m working on my own little giveaway as well!  Stay tuned and in the meantime feel free to have a fresh look around.

The post Sew a summer skirt 101 [Minerva Craft Blogger Network] appeared first on Behind the Hedgerow.

 Make this pattern if:  you want the effect of a peplum skirt but with the practicality of having pockets.

Don’t make this pattern if:  you like your summer skirts floaty and breezy.

I’ve been on a bit of a skirt sewing mission at the moment (and I have at least two more to come).  I’ve never found a favourite go-to skirt pattern and I think it’s about time I did!

The Pattern

So, today I offer up Simplicity 1617 as part of the Minerva Craft Blogger Network.  I was initially drawn to the pockets in views A, C, and D.  I made view D.

These over-sized floppy pockets turned out to be the trickiest part of this project.  I assumed that they were patch pockets sewn to the front of the skit but nooooo they actually look like this!

I actually like this but it meant that I got myself all in a muddle when trying to work out how to get them on!

Sizing

I also got the sizing a bit wrong.  I made a size 10 – one size smaller than my measurements – because previous Simplicity patterns have come up too big.  Well, pretty predictably it ended up being too small!  I let out the side seams as much as possible and think it just about works.  Take note – they don’t say “err on the side of too large rather than too small” for nothing!  It would have been much easier to just take it in a bit on the sides.

Fabric

This skirt is made from a lightweight chambray cotton.  Chambray is made with different colours in the weft and warp (in this case blue and white) to give it a two-toned effect.  You can read lots of interesting facts about chambray in this post by imagine gnats.

It’s quite lightweight – a bit lighter than I expected – so I added a lining.  Although this fabric did work for a skirt I think it may actually be more appropriate for a top.  You can see a great version of Vogue 1323 made up in this same chambray over on Yes I Like That.  (This pattern is going straight to the top of my to-sew list!).

Perhaps a better choice for this skirt would be a slightly more stable stretch denim.  That little bit of stretch wouldn’t go amiss over the ole’ hips either ;-).  I just bought this from Minerva for a different project but think it would be perfect here.

 The Verdict

To be honest, the jury’s out on this one.  The overall shape, with the flapping pockets, is reminiscent of a peplum skirt and, nothing against peplum skirts (Chinelo from Great British Sewing Bee fame has made some stellar versions) but they’ve never really been my cup of tea.

But just because I don’t normally wear a particular style doesn’t mean I should dismiss it altogether, right?  I haven’t worn this skirt out and about yet but I think that once I have it’ll be love or hate!

So I guess this post, even though written about a completed garment, is actually a work in progress.  I’ll let you know how things work out!

Thanks for reading,

Laura x

The post Simplicity 1617 for Minerva Crafts Blogger Network appeared first on Behind the Hedgerow.

Make this pattern if: you want to spend the time to get a nicely fitted bodice.

Don’t make this pattern if: you’re larger than a D cup (the pattern only goes this high).

My youngest brother got married last month and I had a very short window of time to sew something to wear.  The call went out on Instagram and some helpful blogging buddies helped me decide what to make.

I’ve never duplicated dress patterns before but, since I cracked the “amazing fit” aspect of this pattern (well, almost), I decided to take it out for another spin. (Plus, since all the pattern pieces were cut and ready to go I was already ahead of the game).

Simplicity 1652 is part of the Amazing Fit collection.  The idea behind these patterns is that you choose your dress size and your bust size and then mix and match the pieces to make a dress that’s perfectly fitted to you.  I must say, it’s a pretty good system (as long as you fall within the A – D cup range).  I made a size 12 with a C cup.

My first version of this dress was made from a linen-cotton blend and can be seen here.  (You can also read the full pattern review is this post so I won’t repeat everything here).  I love this dress.  I wear it often as it strikes that perfect balance between easy-to-wear yet still smart and stylish.  This version, with the Liberty of London fabric, takes it up a notch in the ‘fancy’ stakes.  I’ve worn it once since the wedding but it’s not something I’d throw on for a wander down the shops for a pint of milk.

Like the first time, I made view A.  For the back I made view A (closed back with invisible zip) as opposed to view B (cut out back) that I did the first time.

Of course I forgot to photograph the back – it’s just like the one above but with the cut out bit filled in.

The whole sewing process of this dress went really smoothly – it’s amazing how much repetition improves our skills!  I was a little nervous cutting into that lush Liberty (which was destined for Margot’s Ash Jumpsuit) but once the first snip was made I settled into it nicely.

So there you have it – another summer dress.  Makes a nice change from all those skirts, right?  I have Simplicity 1882, another one in the Amazing Fit collection, in my stash so really must give that a go next.

What are you making now that summer’s hotting up (or things are cooling down if you’re Down Under)?  We are T-minus 13 days to our house move so please forgive me if you don’t hear from me for a short while.  I plan to document the move over on Instagram so if you’re at all interested in the transition from city-living to country-bumpkin then please follow along!

Thanks for reading,

Laura x

The post Another Simplicity 1652…in Liberty of London (*swoon*) appeared first on Behind the Hedgerow.